Twenty8 NoMad’s Traditional English Picnic Afternoon Tea is a world unto its own, not unlike stepping into a Wes Anderson film. You might come for the top-notch afternoon tea and superb interior, but it’s the service – and wonderful interactions – that make you smile and want to stay.
Housed within NoMad London, Twenty8 NoMad occupies a Grade II-listed building in Covent Garden. Once a Magistrates’ Court and Police Station, the space has been transformed by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio into an enchanting conservatory.
Upscale and a touch exotic, the lush interiors blend colonial influences with the glamour of 1920s New York and refinement of a French brasserie. Among the soaring glass-roof ceiling, pendant lights, statement fireplace, rugs and ornate pillars, offset by a terracotta palette flanked by flourishing palms and greenery, your eyes feast first.
Our table was suitably on theme, dressed with a red gingham tablecloth and miniature picnic basket from which teacups and sauces emerged. Gentle background music made it easy to settle in, and settle in we did, clinking glasses with a dry, highly drinkable glass of English sparkling from Westwell, Kent.
The next beverage was of course, tea. Selecting from The Rare Tea Company’s globally sourced loose-leaf selection allowed us to travel the world (Malawi, China, India, South Africa, Ethiopia) with each cup.The White Peony tea was soft, floral, and well-rounded, while the Iron Goddess of Merci oolong was smooth, almost creamy, with a lightly roasted finish. Rather than being left to continue steeping, leaves from our teapots had been set aside, allowing us to choose whether to infuse the leaves further.
It must be said that the attentive and charismatic team, including Head Chef Tommer Samuels, made the entire experience wonderfully personal. Items were explained, questions were answered, stories were shared and water was frequently topped up. We never felt hurried, which only elevated the experience.
Moving onto savouries, the cucumber and herb cream cheese on white bread was an invigorating burst of herbaceousness, with decorative flowers adding an aesthetic touch. Cut into a perfect circle, like a cookie, it looked playful on the platter and was just as fun to eat. The lobster roll & cocktail sauce was better yet. A springy, perfectly toasted brioche held a generous amount of lobster, striking the right balance between shellfish and creamy mayonnaise.
The coronation chicken sandwich was the standout – and likely the best coronation chicken sandwich we’ve encountered. Paired with sundried tomato bread, with a hint of curry and crisp chicken skin for depth and texture, it was extremely moreish.
The classic egg mayonnaise and cress on wholegrain bread was a classic, but felt slightly dry and salty. And best enjoyed last, the Stilton quiche offered a punchy hit of savouryness alongside an easy to cut pastry base.
On the other hand, I opted for the vegan menu. Twenty8 NoMad deserves credit for such a well thought out, creative alternative. My highlights were the irresistible coronation jackfruit on white bread, and the tempura cauliflower & cocktail sauce on a sweet roll. I finished with the tomato and aubergine quiche, which looked like a layered tapestry of jewels, however was a little smoky for my taste.
A melon ice lolly provided a novel and welcome palate cleanser, tasting like summer in a spoonful. Ginger & Lemongrass and Honeybush teas brought further refreshment, with uplifting, aromatic notes.
Golden vanilla and rum & currant scones were presented with strawberry jam, clotted cream, and citrusy lemon curd. The rum currant version had a subtle boozy note and very enjoyable rum-cake-like quality. The vegan coconut and flaxseed scone was a little crumbly and dry by comparison, and may have had gluten-free composition.
Scones sampled, with final deserts beckoning, we entered into the final stage of our picnic. The cherry bakewell tart was sophisticated and not sickly in the slightest, the victoria sponge mousse light and silky, the lemon curd tart cut through with a tang, and the melt-in-your-mouth coffee & walnut cake was the resounding favourite.
On the vegan side, a chilled raspberry mousse and mango pavlova tasted delicious and distinctly on theme, while the decadent chocolate and mint cremeux made for a heavenly final bite.
We were fortunate to receive a behind-the-scenes tour of the kitchen with Twenty8 NoMad’s quietly proud and passionate chef Tommer. A well-oiled machine, the kitchen revealed the absolute care and precision taken at every stage of afternoon tea preparations.
Because we stayed long enough, we were each invited to try a third tea: the Ethiopian Koseret, which had a surprisingly delightful basil aroma and taste, and the Wild Rooibos, warming and earthy.
Joyful and characterful (even the stunning blue-and-white vintage-style bathroom didn’t miss the memo) Twenty8 NoMad’s Traditional English Picnic Afternoon Tea is a must-do in London. The quality of the vegan offering made it exceptionally inclusive, and the service could not be faulted. From the outset, the afternoon tea unfolded on our own time, and that sense of freedom felt like genuine value.
As summer gives way to autumn, exciting seasonal substitutions like apples, crab, and salmon will add a new dimension to the contemporary menu.
Traditional English Picnic Afternoon Tea Menu:
Savoury
- Stilton Quiche on shortcrust
- Cucumber & Herb Cream Cheese on white bread
- Lobster Roll & Cocktail Sauce on a brioche roll
- Egg Mayonnaise Salad & Cress on whole grain bread
- Coronation Chicken on sundried tomato bread
Scones
- Plain Vanilla & Rum Currant Scones, served with strawberry jam, clotted cream and lemon curd
Sweets
- Lemon Drizzle Choux
- Victoria Sponge Mousse
- Cherry Bakewell Tart
- Coffee & Walnut Cake
Rare Teas
Twenty8 NoMad has proudly partnered with the Rare Tea Company to procure the world’s best loose-leaf tea, which are responsibly and ethically sourced directly from farmers and their tea gardens.
Afternoon Tea London – find more experiences in our High Tea Venue Directory
