There is an undeniable awe that assails when sauntering into the Treasury at the InterContinental Sydney. Accompanied by a swirling alpine and wood-soaked scent that speaks of establishment, power and old cigars, this is living history framed in alluring elegance.
Sydney has few true statement hotels and this artfully preserved shrine to colonial history retains the belle epoque throne.
The Treasury cortile is a threshold to a long-lost era, designed to link the old and new buildings, crested by the soaring glass atrium and beset by the Southern Hemisphere’s oldest operational lift, the original gold rush era state treasury vault is still beneath one’s feet. Commissioned in 1849 to house the spoils of the gold rush and opened in 1851 as the NSW Treasury, the links to the bones of this grand monument and its place in time are celebrated at every turn.
The theme of interconnectedness and heritage is taken seriously by the InterContinental team. From the $120m refurbishment undertaken in 2022, linking two buildings built 130 years apart, and by design, from the attention to ambience through to its food creation.
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Viewed from the sage green velvet banquettes, the Treasury is a cinematic Wes Anderson- esque scene stealer, with the low-lit amber pulse of the art deco bar in pleasing frame and the famed birdcage lift to the left, the Victorian neo-classical vibes with Italian palazzo interruptions, the black and white marbled flooring. It shudders with nostalgia and just as we settle, a featured guest star rolls in. Magnetised by the ornate crystal punch bowl, the Papa Salt Gin Trolley knows how to make an entrance. The Papa Salt Punch is a tuberose hued pink potion anchored in Papa Salt’s Australian laced native botanical gin, accompanied by Mac wattle seed liquor, pink grapefruit, raw local honey and Australian native tea.
When poured, with a nod to Papa Salt co-founder Margot Robbie, the theatrics begin. Our hostess expertly loads and wields an aroma smoke gun, which produces the mystical site of a smoking, hovering orb perched atop our punch with a wafting trace scent of bubblegum, pink I think.
The new high tea offering has kept to establishment rules with new wave twists and paying subtle homage to its golden history.
The devilish charms of this High Tea are really in the detail. In keeping with the connectivity to place and experience, the next objet d’art of note is the High Tea display stand itself, procured from America to match the design and style of the hotel’s centrepiece lift.
The InterContinental’s executive chef Himanshu Sharda, head hunted from Melbourne with a pedigree from the RACV, Fenix and the Novotel has brought a studied fresh pivot on the traditional fare. Chef Sharda enjoys tussling with the classics adding Davidson plum to delicate venison wrapped asparagus, replenishing the hallowed devilled egg with samphire and ostrietra black caviar, creating finger lime compote to reinvent the tiny tuna taco and curing the salmon in Papa Salt gin. Some classics are kept sacrosanct, with the smoked chicken sandwich and whipped goats cheese and tomato tart keeping the establishment at bay.
The eight-tea selection from Byron Bay tea purveyors Mayde Tea, offers a well chosen mix of classic staples and nouveau wonders including the stand out botanical blend, Hibiscus Lemon Myrtle and the Serenity, a celebration of lavender, rose petals, passionflower and chamomile to cleanse the palate.
The Treasury scones are impossible to ignore and demand more, a Sharda speciality made with lemonade and accompanied by Midyim Berry jam and lashings of double cream, they are light as clouds and resonant as fresh rain.
Further traditionalist uprisings take hold from the sweets tier, with the Treasury’s rendition of the Eton mess scandalised by lavender and popping candy, the cream cheese delice invaded by Davidson plum and dehydrated mandarin and the choux au craqueline matches our velveteen lounges perfectly doused in botanical green tea, and white chocolate.
As dusk descends, the lobby pulses with new pace, the bar takes on a very serious hue and the ambience of old school establishment Sydney proves that it is here to stay, but always with an unexpected twist.
Classic High Tea Menu:
Savoury:
- Papa salt cured salmon, Sanoma brioche, beetroot gel, native pepper berry
- Venison wrapped asparagus, horse radish mayo, Davidson plum
- Devilled egg, Ostrietra black caviar samphire
- Tuna taco, avocado creme, finger lime compote, chives
- Smoked chicken finger sandwich, Cornichon, pickle shallot
- Whipped goats cheese, tomato tart, salsa verde
Sweet:
- Botanical green tea craqueline, white chocolate, green tea dust
- Treasury Eton mess, lavender, popping candy
- Cream cheese delice, Davidson plum, dehydrated mandarin
Scones:
- Lemonade scones, Midyim Berry jam and double cream
Tea selection by Mayde
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Reviews for this venue:
- 29 November 2023: High Tea at The Treasury, InterContinental Sydney
- 8 June 2021: Sky Tea in the Panorama Lounge Bar, InterContinental Sydney
- 30 November 2019: The Nutcracker High Tea at the InterContinental Sydney
- 3 December 2017: High Tea at The Cortile, InterContinental Sydney
- 5 August 2015: High Tea at the InterContinental Hotel Sydney
- 18 July 2012: High Coffee at the InterContinental Sydney
- 4 November 2010: High Tea at the InterContinental Sydney
